Saturday 12 August 2017

Art, Arch and the Seine

Dear Sofie,

Your first breakfast in Paris consisted of two croissants and a variety of macaroons. I am pretty sure this is considered a parenting fail, but whatever. We managed to find a nearby bakery that promised a peanut free environment. I was dubious, but you seemed comfortable with the odds, and I was told to trust you, so off you went. I believe your biggest thrill was paying in coins with the machine in front of the cashier. You carefully inserted your payment and squealed a tiny bit when the change came pouring out.

“Cool!”

You were on your second macaroon before we were ten metres away. I asked, in as casual a voice as I could muster, how long it usually took you to react when dealing with peanuts.

“Almost immediately,” you shrugged. Then you walked towards the entrance to the metro. I decided not to insist on bringing out the epi pen.

Your first art stop was L’Orangerie to visit the famous Monet installation. The building itself was designed to protect an orange grove, but the trees are long gone now and in its place is a gift to a World War I weary city in need of a place of quiet reflection. Monet was inspired by his garden and we worked diligently on this piece as his eyes continued to fail him. We can see the approaching darkness in the work. You would later recall how the work was unfinished in places, the canvass laid bare for all to see.

We journeyed next to the MuseĆ© D’Orsay and you were immediately enthralled by the massive space and beautiful architecture of the place. We explained at how it used to be a train station and you said you could recognise it as such. But you were totally taken aback at the amount of work and effort was put into “just a train station”. We explained about the first impressions a city wants to make on visitors; about point of pride and a demonstration of grandeur. But this was a foreign concept to you. You were baffled that so much art and love could be found in a public building.

We walked through the forest of sculptures and I introduced you to David and Goliath and Artemis and Acteon and wise old blind Oedipus and his daughter Elektra. We looked at paintings with rich, deep tones and imagery born of old stories. You compared the brush strokes of Van Gogh with those of Monet that you saw earlier in the day.

But throughout the visit you kept your eye on the large clock that dominated the building. You were clearly enamoured with it. You spoke of its beauty and its immensity and wondered how one would wind it.

After a lunch in which you were introduced to escargots still in the shell and the origin of the snotty French waiter concept, we went to the Arc du Triumph. After climbing the stairs to the top I knew I had done some damage almost immediately. I am too old and too fat for this kind of experience! We must have been up there for about an hour looking around at the city. As we looked down at the Champs Elysees we spoke about Hitler and du Gaul and the wealthy and visual connection between this site and the Louvre and the financial district .

And we watched the frenetic traffic below as the cars encircled us and miraculously nobody was killed.

On our way home you helped us find groceries for dinner and worked the machine that pressed fresh oranges for us for juice in the morning.  We arrived back in the flat and I cooked you a creamy salmon dish and we ate around that tiny counter perched upon those impossibly high chairs. The three of us, tired from our journey, ate and spoke quietly.

I suppose I should tell you this secret now, Sofie. Eric and I have been told we are quite generous to bring you to this wonderful city. But the truth of it all is this: it is actually quite selfish of us. The universe unfolded in such a way that we were not able to have our own children. This is a painful and sad story that can be told another day in the far future. But suffice to say we were disappointed. Luckily for us, your parent had you and your sister. And twelve years later  we cannot imagine our lives without you two. It’s like you been with us forever. This trip, was our opportunity to show you the world, not only as a traveler, but as we see it as travelers. The generous ones were not us, my dear. It was your parents for allowing us the honour and opportunity to take you.

Watching you today and seeing your eyes light up was pure gold for us.

We ended the day with an evening cruise on the Seine where you saw many of the highlights of the city. We met some friends of Eric and they joined us. I was impressed with how easy going you were. You engaged in conversation willingly and made a real effort to make them feel welcome in our little group. This is further proof that you are no longer a child.

We came home really late after a post-tour coffee with our friends and the longest flight of stairs in metro history. Also, we had to stop for another drink so you could use the bathroom. At 1pm we insisted you call home and you told your parents everything that had happened since.

I felt bad for your folks being so far away from you. But I also felt grateful to them for letting us spirit you away on this adventure. As you went to bed to sleep the sleep of the innocent I felt happy. But I also felt a little sad because the day we would return you to the arms of your parents was approaching fast.



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