Sunday 7 July 2013

The Beginning, The Beckoning, and The Boar


The Beginning, The Beckoning, and The Boar.

You may recall, almost a year ago, I claimed boldly in a hotel room in Rome that I would not be returning for another summer trip with Global Journeys for awhile. It was not because I didn’t enjoy the job. In fact, I not only love it...I am in love with it. It plays to my strengths and it challenges me as I introduce young people to European art and culture. But, I wrote that night in Rome, I was getting tired. I needed some time off from travelling.
And here I am. In Italy. Again.
This is not my fault. This is the fault of two people. Deb Pedersen, owner of Global Journeys, and Eric. Deb seduced me with Malta. I haven’t been to Malta and she knew that I would find it very difficult to turn down. She is a Travel Vixen. I didn’t stand a chance. And Eric...well...I said to Eric that if I were to do another trip like this there could be no road trip in August like years before.  Anyone who knows Eric know full well that he would never agree to such a thing. Then he agreed to such a thing.  Then, I thought, I wanted a smaller class. Fourteen was too much for my tired self. No problem, claimed Vixen Deb, teach the Classical Civilisations course. The numbers are always smaller when you don’t teach English.  Fine, I thought, I will do it again.
Fifteen students later here I am teaching kids about the ancient world.
Oh well...it’s still an awesome job and my original plan for the summer of 2013 was a trip to Egypt. Yeesh.
Oh yeah, and Eric is working for Global Journeys this year. He is the team leader for the trip to France. I think that this was his way of letting go of the road trip this summer. Ha! When he comes back, the only road trip he’ll be in the mood for is to end of the driveway to pick up the recyclables container.
You may have also noted, or not, that I have not been keeping up with the blog for the past few months. I had decided to try to push the blog further throughout the year and had limited success. I have learned a few lessons about myself and will try again in the fall. In the meantime, we have returned to a travel blog once again.
Our first stop on this trip has been Florence.
I don’t exactly know when it happened, but I fell madly in love with Florence during one of my visits. I love the fact that you can walk in a mostly car-free environment throughout the old city centre and that everywhere you look there is testament to the artistry of the old Italian masters. This trip I have walked within the church and home of Dante, followed the footsteps of Machiavelli, and gazed upon the works of Il Sodomi,  Caravaggio, and da Vinci. I also love the soft bustle of the people as they move about the streets. It’s busy, to be sure, but it seems more...intimate...than the hustle of Rome. Tonight, as I write this I can hear the people walking by as music wanders around the cobbled streets, being carried around stone walls and old engravings of the Virgin Mary with the soft evening wind. The city is not revelling, like you expect New York or London to do. But it’s still awake and alive after Sunday midnight gives way to early Monday morning. I hear voices, but they laugh and speak to each other with intent. They do not yell or scream or simply make noise because it is possible.
Tonight, as a I said goodbye to this fair city, I walked down a main thoroughfare and shared it with literally thousands of people. But the noise was muted. It reminded me of the evening walks that we witnessed in Gander, Newfoundland a few years ago. It was like the entire town had just finished dinner and had all decided to go for a walk to ease digestion. It was like that....only in hundreds.
Our hotel , the Hotel de Lanzie, is one block away from the Duomo and we can hear the bells chime. There are a lot of bells and they chime on the hour, the half hour and whenever the hell someone feels like ringing the bells. And it’s not just the Duomo. Today, Sunday, the pealing of the bells filled the late morning air for a great long time. It seemed to last forever. And then it did it again. Never has a disruption in my class been so openly welcomed. The window in the room I taught this week looked out onto a street that ran perpendicular to ours and ended at the front door of the hotel. Down this street, between the narrow stone buildings you can see the southern facade of the Duomo rise up towards the sky. This is my view as I try to inspire my kids about the birth place of the Remaissance.
And I get paid to do this.

We took the kids to the Uffizi and I did my best to give them a meaningful tour. I spoke of Boticelli, and Vasari, and Rembrandt. I introduced them to St. Sebastian, Laocoon, and Cosimo de Medici. I told them the stories of Eros and Psyche, Marsyas and Apollo, and Salome and St. John the Baptist. We took pictures of the Pont dell Vecchio and the Arno from the south facade and marveled at the Medici secret passageway that connects the Uffizi to Pitti Palace. Every time I go to the Uffizi I discover new things. This time I appreciated the room with the sculptures of Niobe and her children. Having boasted that her children were better than even the twins Apollo and Artemis, Niobe was forced to watch all of her children die at the hands of these two gods. The statues are spread around the room, each one of them writhing in desperate pain as their mother watches from one side, clinging to her youngest in desperation.
But it is not all about the art.
Across the tiny street there is Grom, a very popular and well regarded gelateria. This is not the gelato that is brightly coloured and piled up high in the cooler so that those walking by cannot help but notice. This is the real thing. The soft, creamy gelato that must be protected from the light so it is kept in metal drums with covers. This gelato is not scooped, it is moulded onto the cone or into the cup.
And they had Liquorizia. My favourite flavour that is so very difficult to find. Can this be anything else but a sign?

So I am filled to the rim with this gelato on this last night before leaving Florence.
We also showed the kids the markets, packed solidly with leather and scarves and trinkets that glitter and glow. We taught the kids the beginner’s approach to haggling, and made them rub the nose of the statue of the boar. While the copper of the statue has been green for  generations, the nose is still bright from the rubbing of thousands of visitors who believe that doing this will guarantee a return to Florence. We all dutifully committed ourselves to coming back and building on this experience.
Tonight I walked the main thoroughfare before I had to go to my hotel for bed check and said my good bye to the Uffizie and Piazza dell Vecchio. I had realised a few days ago that I really didn’t know when I would come back.  In trips before I could estimate at least a general time period of my next visit to Florence. But not this time.
I definitely won’t be going with Global Journeys next year. (Really. We have plans with our godchildren and their parents.) And once I am in administration...whenever that happens...my ability to commit becomes a bit more complicated. Eric isn’t called to Italy like I am so he wants to see other things in the world...and so do I, really.

I don’t know when I will return to this beautiful, wonderful, artistic city that calls to be from the beginnings of the Renaissance. And this makes me very sad as I head of to bed.

I don’t know when I will be back. But I will be back. Someday.  After all, I rubbed the nose of the boar.